What to do if you are caught in bigger waves than you can handle? (2024) Tips to remain calm in big surf

I am usually giving the same advice to friends who find themselves getting smashed repeatedly in bigger surf. Here are some tips I hope will help you out.

If you manage to paddle out and the waves are bigger than you can handle, make a plan to get back to shore. Take a smaller wave or whitewash in. If there are long lulls, time your paddle.

What can you do out there if things are not going so well?

1. Conserve your energy

If your leash or board breaks, you still need enough energy to swim in. Getting smashed over and over is exhausting.

2. Remain calm

If you are caught on the inside getting smashed repeatedly, just remember the waves come in sets. It will pass. Make a plan to get to shore on the next lull/break or when a smaller wave comes through.

3. Never turn your back to the ocean

I see it all the time. Less experienced surfers getting caught off guard. The waves don’t slow down for you.

4. Count slowly under water

If you are held underwater, try not to panic. Try counting slowly…. 1, 2, 3. It will calm you down and help you realize you are not underwater for as long as you may think. Look for the light and swim towards it.

5. Cover your head

Always protect your head. You don’t want to be hit your board or fins when you come up. You don’t want to be knocked out, concussed or stunned from being hit.

6. Position your board perpendicular to the wave

Think of the letter “T”. The wave is horizontal, and your board is vertical. It is better to face the waves in this position facing the ocean or towards the beach. If your board is facing the waves at an angle or horizontally, it gives the wave a lot more surface area to smash you. If you are facing the beach, you have a greater chance of being pushed back to shore.

7. Take off your leash

As you get closer to the beach, you may find the shore break too heavy (slammy) to safely paddle in. You don’t want to risk your board hitting you or wiping out in the sand. Only do this if it is safe to do so. If there are no rocks, people or other hazards on shore in front of you, you can take off your leash and let your board wash to shore. This gives you the opportunity to swim in safely. Your board will be waiting for you on the beach. Quickly grab it before the next wave comes.

8. Lesson learned

Take a look at what went wrong. How big are the waves really? Look at other surfers in the water and determine if it is chest, shoulder, head high? Over head? You can rely on surf reports for a general idea of what to expect. When you get to the beach, make sure you look at the actual conditions to avoid a repeat experience. Everyone has a different tolerance for wave size. Trust your instincts.

Look at the kind of waves. Are they rolling in one after another, constantly with no breaks (no chance for you to get out)? Another indicator is how much messy white foam do you have to paddle through. These are all indicators of a tough paddle out. On smaller days, you will not seem so much foam in the water to get to the lineup.

Pay attention to the other surfers in the water. If there are surfers out and none of them are catching waves, that might be a good indication not to paddle out.

So now what?

You went through the darn effort of loading your car, driving to the beach and the conditions don’t look to your level. Is there white wash to ride where you will not be in the way of others? Maybe just practice your popup and surfing the white water.

Watch the other surfers. Pay attention to where and how they are catching the waves. This is all info you can use to your benefit the next time you go out.

Body surf. If it is safe to swim and play in the ocean? Have some fun!

Do an alternate beach activity on the boardwalk such as skating or running. I find picking up trash therapeutic. Stretch, meditate or do yoga on the sand.